C2C crochet is a technique which creates a lovely textured fabric made up of small blocks worked in diagonal rows. It is fun and easy to do and is a useful technique to know as you can create beautiful items quickly using only a couple of stitches!
In this photo tutorial written in UK terms you will learn the basics including increasing, decreasing, how to change colour, how to manage yarn and how to read a chart or graphgan.
Lets get started!
The Increase Stitch
All corner to corner projects start with the increase stitch – which means you increase by one block (also known as tiles, boxes or squares) for every diagonal row until your project is the desired size:
Row 1. Chain 6. Starting in 4th chain from hook (missed chains count as 3 chain-space) 3 treble crochet. 1 block made. Turn.
Row 2. 6 chain, starting in 4th chain from hook, 3 treble crochet (1st block made). [Slip stitch, 3 chain, 3 treble] into the 3 chain-space (2nd block made). 2 blocks. Turn.
Row 3 onwards: repeat the steps in Row 2 until your project is the desired width.
In case you prefer to work from written instructions I’ve added these below too:
Step 1: Chain 6
Step 2: Treble crochet into the fourth chain from the hook
Step 3: Treble crochet in the next two chains
1 block made. Turn.
Step 4: Chain 6
Step 5: Treble crochet into the fourth chain from the hook and into the next two chains (1 block made)
Step 6: Slip stitch into the chain-3 turning space from the previous row
Step 7: Chain 3
Step 8: 3 treble crochet into the 3 chain-3 turning space
2 blocks made. Turn.
ROW 3 onwards: – repeat steps 4-8 to the end of each additional row until your project is the desired width.
The Decrease Stitch
Once your project has reached the desired size work the decrease stitch by removing one block from each row:
Row 1. 2 slip stitch into the treble crochets just made and 1 slip stitch into the chain space (to create a flat edge). Then [3 chain, 3 treble crochet] into the 3 chain-space.
Continue as before with [1 slip-stitch, 3 chain & 3 treble] into each chain space repeating to the end of the row. 1 slip stitch in last 3 chain-space. Turn.
You will see the flat edge develop with each row worked and your project will decrease by 1 block per row until only 1 block remains.
Step 1: 2 slip stitch into the treble crochets just made, 1 slip stitch into the chain space
Step 2: Chain 3
Step 3: 3 treble crochet into the 3-chain space
Step 4: 1 slip stitch into the next 3-chain space
Step 5: Chain 3
Step 6: 3 treble into the 3-chain space
Repeat steps 4-6 until the last chain space. Slip stitch to join.
Working with Square/Rectangle Projects
When working a square shaped project in corner to corner crochet you will start to decrease when the project is at its widest point.
However when working a rectangular project you will decrease at two points. When it is wide enough, you will begin decreasing at the start of every other row. Then, when the project is long enough, you will begin decreasing at the start of every row until only 1 block remains.
How to Change Colour in C2C
Changing colours in corner to corner crochet is actually very simple. Change colours as in standard crochet by working the last yarn over of the previous stitch in the new colour.
If the colour change is in the middle of a row, change to the new colour on the last yarn over of the treble crochet, prior to making the slip stitch into the next chain space.
Do not cut your yarn after the colour change (unless you don’t need it again!) and continue to work in the new colour. I like to drop the yarn of the old colour and push it to the wrong side of the work and pick it back up again on the next row. Where possible I work over the old yarn to minimise weaving in ends which also helps to keep the back of your work as neat as the front!
If the colour of yarn I want is nearby I pull it across and work over it to also avoid cutting and weaving in ends (as long as this can be done neatly of course!).
How to Deal with Multiple Colours in C2C
The tricky bit of corner to corner crochet can be keeping track of all the different coloured yarn so you don’t get in a tangle!
If I am using multiple colours I tend to use yarn bobbins – these are small wooden or plastic yarn holders which you can wind small amounts of yarn onto and clip onto your work to stop you getting into a tangle – you can also use pegs, cardboard or even just small amounts of yarn rolled into a ball if you prefer.
It also helps to remember the direction that you turn your work in – so that the next time you turn your work you flip it back in the opposite direction – this can help to unwind any twists that have occurred!
How to Read C2C Charts
C2C charts can be used to create beautiful patterns, words and graphics and can be used to create a ‘Graphghan’ – a blanket or afghan made from a chart. They are normally worked from the bottom right-hand corner to the top left-hand corner, as shown in the chart below.
The increase stitch is worked from the beginning block (row 1) until the widest or tallest point is reached on the graph (row 5). After this point the decrease stitch is used, until the last row on the chart has been reached (row 9).
Many patterns will feature both charts and written instructions and this can be helpful if you prefer to work from written instructions rather than a chart – for example: Row 17: 4MC, 17CC1, 9CC2 – with each letter combination representing a different color of yarn.
I tend to prefer working from charts and cross off the rows as I work!
Tips for Working C2C
- Keep your tension even.
- Always count your blocks and check your colours as it is a pain to frog your work!
- If you are following a pattern cross off the rows on your chart or on the written instructions so that when you put your work down you can easily pick up where you left off.
- Add a stitch marker to your work when you take a break so it doesn’t unravel accidently.
- You can use any weight yarn for C2C crochet and you can also use HTR stitches instead of treble crochet stitches.
- Use the hook size as recommended on the ball band but bear in mind what sort of project you are working on – for example for a cushion cover I might go down a hook size to reduce the chance of the cushion inner pad showing through the gaps.
I hope you have found this guide useful, and if you haven’t already tried corner to corner crochet I hope it has given you some confidence to give it a go! If you do make anything after using this tutorial please let me know on instagram!